Santorini

After a long and arduos ferry trip spent trying to avoid the incessant smoking everywhere we arrived in Fira, Santorini at about 2am. Unfortunately for us the place we booked via the travel agent (who also booked the ferry) was not at all what we expected. The most irritating thing was the fact that it was right next to the main road leading up to Oia (pronounced ee-ya) and the noise from the constant stream of cars, buses and motorcycles was unbearable.

We didnt get much sleep that first night and after trying in vain to get a different room we decided to change hotels the next morning. Since we happened to arrive on the weekend we couldnt find anywhere decent for the next night and could only change hotels after spending 2 sleepless nights at our original hotel.

Enough said about that. For those of you who arent familiar with Santorini, it is a doughnut shaped island with a piece bitten off in the bottom left hand side. It has been formed by multiple volcanic eruptions over thousands of years(including the biggest volcanic eruption in recorded history believed to have wiped out the Minoeans in Crete in 1650 BC) which left the mouth of the volcano mostly intact and the caldera submerged leaving only a small volcanic island in the middle. Santorini is the volcano mouth part with jaw dropping cliffs made of layers of lava. The views from the clifftop towns to the caldera are amazing in the day and night, but its most famous for its sunsets. Many large cruise ships come into the caldera and boats full of tourists visit Santorini for the day. Many of the tourists we saw were older Americans who could hardly manage to walk the cobbled and hilly paths.

Santorini is very touristy because that is its life blood. The clifftop cafes and restaurants charge exorbitant prices because of the views. While we did have an expensive meal in one of those restaurants overlooking the caldera most times we bought gyros and sat in front of the church in the main promenade and enjoyed the view all the same.

We did a day excursion that took people by boat to the volcanic island in the middle of the caldera followed by the hot springs in Palia Kameni and a visit to a seaside town in Thirasia (an island separated from the Sanotirini mainland). The climb up to the top of the volcanic island was very tiring in the extreme heat of the day and I didnt think it was really worth it.

We also visited the black beach in Perissa for half a day. Many tourists were sun bathing and swimming even though the water was very cold. We didnt really see the appeal of Perissa beach when compared with Fira nevertheless you cant underestimate the sun starved Europeans need to get a tan.

In one of the evenings we visited Oia which is another cliff top town with unrestricted views of the Aegean Sea. Oia is supposed to have the best sunsets (this is what most postcards have a picture of) and many tourists flock to every nook and cranny facing the water to get a look at the sunset. We found a spot in the old Venetian fort and waited for the sunset. I really wouldnt say that was the best sunset especially after seeing so many wonderful ones in the Maldives.

My most vivid and treasured memory of Santorini happened quite by accident. As we were walking back to our hotel one night along the clifftop path we happened to look back at Fira and were amazed by the way the town was light up with lights and the full moon in the distance reflecting on the water. We sat on a set of steps and watched the scene for ages in the cool of the night. I think this view was more spectacular than the world famous views of the caldera by day.. but thats just my opinion. We tried to get photos of it but it didnt seem to capture the full spectacle.

Overall I have to say I found Santorini quite underwhelming & overrated. Even if I ignored the whole hotel saga I still feel this way. It was too expensive and touristy for my liking. Our next stop is Crete.

On a side note.. I had such a laugh in Santorini looking at all these women wearing ridiculous heels and wedges walking with wobbly feet. The paths are so uneven and you tend to climb up and down so much I really couldnt understand the logic of some people. So much for women's liberation if we have to still be in pain to 'look good'.. but I suppose liberation is just that; freedom to do anything and be anything even if that is stupid.